Friday 31 May 2013 – Kinlochbervie to Talmine (Kyle of Tongue)

The fog had gone, but visibility was not very good, with cloud on the top of the cliffs.  We motored and sailed towards Cape Wrath with very calm sea and slowly improving visibility, passing inside of Am Balg.  We could just see the stack Am Buchaille.  We had a good view of Cape Wrath and as conditions continued very calm passed inside Duslic Rock.  As we passed Durness we tried to identify Smoo Cave, but could not quite see it.  We arrived at Talmine, which is a fairly sheltered bay at the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue to find a number of moorings.  Liberty had already picked one up and we took another.

Taking a walk ashore, we happened to meet Magnus, the owner of the mooring, in the village shop.  He assured us it was secure.

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Approaching Cape Wrath

Leaving Cape Wrath. Note cloud forming there

Moored at Talmine, Kyle of Tongue

Talmine

Thursday 30 May 2013 – Loch Nedd to Kinlochbervie

Quite a good sail until we ran into fog just before Handa Island.  The fog continued as we followed our waypoints towards Kinlochbervie.  On the way into Loch Inchard we were met by 3 dolphins, which is always a special event.  However this time we felt we had to concentrate on finding our way rather watching the dolphins. Suddenly we came out of the fog and the pink rocks of the headland had extra clarity after the greyness of the fog.

Watched the fish auction. Later cooked two large Megrim (a flat fish) for supper, expecting to have plenty left over.

Met Roger and Peter on Liberty and discussed the route to Orkney.  We decided to copy their route to Orkney.

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Entering Loch Inchard, just leaving the fog

Kinlochbervie Harbour

This Great Skua kept tring to land on the boat or even Pam’s head

Fish auction in progress. The man in yellow is the auctioneer

Monk fish at the market

Wednesday 29 May 2013 – Tanera Mor to Loch Nedd

Zero wind and blue sky all round – not what you normally expect in Scotland.  After breakfast a little wind filled in from the N and we left, just before the big rock in the middle of the anchorage covered.  The idea was to go round the first headland, Rubha Coigach and then decide if we would carry on further North or go to Lochinver. Although it was a beat, we reached Rubha Coigach with no trouble in smooth water and decided to continue round Stoer Head.  After putting in first and later second reefs, we eventually rounded Stoer head in the last of the favourable tide but with rather confused sea.  At this point we decided that Kinlochbervie was too far and to windward, but Loch Nedd was nearer and we could approach on a reach.  Anchored in very shallow water, finding the loch very cosy and sheltered, as expected.  I don't think we will go ashore as there is nothing much here and the shop in the next village would be closed by the time we reached it.

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Leaving the Summer Isles, Tanera Mor on L

Stoer Head, Old Man of Stoer just visible

Quinag, with entrance to Loch Nedd somewhere nearby

Tuesday 28 May 2013 – Loch Shieldaig (Gairloch) to Tanera Mor

A rather frustrating sail.  We left the loch with a reef in place, expecting more wind outside.  After a while we took out the reef and sailed rather slowly with the wind in various directions, together with short bits of motoring when the wind got too light. In the last few miles the wind filled in again and the reef went back in again.  We anchored in the bay at the NW corner of Tanera Mor, going into the most sheltered part behind a big rock.  Did not go ashore as it's a hike through rough vegetation to get anywhere and the tea shop at the other side of the island would be closed.  Saw mystery cetacean through the binoculars (Minke or Bottlenose dolphin).

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Summer Isles

Entering the anchorage at Tanera Mor

Monday 27 May 2013 – Loch Shieldaig

Wind and rain provided an opportunity for a long lie in, a leisurely breakfast and catching up on reading.  However after lunch the weather slowly improved and no more excuses could be found. We went ashore and took a long walk along the track towards Torridon, coming back the same way.  The windy weather seems to have passed more quickly than expected – we should be able to move on tomorrow

It’s a long way back

Maybe we will have a fine day tomorrow

Sunday 26 May 2013 – Crowlin Is to Loch Shieldaig (Gairloch)

We want to be somewhere sheltered for Monday, with strong winds expected.  The options are Plockton, which is in the wrong direction, or Badachro or Loch Shieldaig (both in Gairloch).  With wind from the South it seemed best to head N towards Gairloch.  The cruising chute had its first outing of the year and we could still remember how to use it.  Badachro was a bit disappointing as there was quite a strong wind through the place and the 2 visitors’ moorings seem to be fictional.  This is a pity as it’s a pleasant small holiday place with a pub.  Last year we anchored there but this did not appeal in the wind.  So we went round the corner to Loch Shieldaig and used one of the proper visitors’ moorings there.  The only facility on shore is a rather posh-looking hotel, but we did not feel like that sort of dining.

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In the Inner Sound with cruising chute

Loch Torridon with Torridon mountains

Sucker fish found on the mooring rope at Loch Shieldaig

Saturday 25 May 2013 – Eigg to Crowlin Is

Before breakfast we moved to the outer anchorage.  We decided to leave Skye to port as windy weather is expected late Sunday and on Monday and this route will give more options for shelter.  With the wind now S or SW, this was our first day of downwind sailing.  It was all a bit slow until we reached Kyle Rhea and got pushed through at a max speed of 13 knots.  After a few confusing gusts from the nearby slopes we were through into Kyle Akin.  The wind was against us through the bridge, so it took a while to get through to the Inner Sound.  At the Crowlin Islands there was a boat in the outer anchorage and nobody in the pool.

Tomorrow we probably want to find somewhere sheltered as a depression is forecast to bring strong winds.

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Approaching Skye Bridge

Friday 24 May 2013 – Tobermory to Eigg

After shopping for food and fuel filter, we eventually gave up waiting for the engine man as we were unwilling to miss a beautiful day for someone who might not turn up anyway.  After leaving Tobermory in fine style, the wind went light and we did a few minutes of motoring.  The wind soon picked up and we had a good beat towards the Small Isles.  With the wind from the North and forecast to go South we opted for Eigg, arrived about high tide and anchored in the drying area.  After supper we took a walk up the Sgurr to take photos.

Tomorrow we will move on North

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Downwind sailing at last as we approached Eigg

Eigg – in the inner harbour

Skye from An Sgurr

Dried out in the moonlight

Thursday 23 May 2013 – Tobermory

Strong NW wind, long forecast, so we never intended going anywhere.  The local engine man advised changing the fuel filter and said he would call to take a look at it.  The filter seemed perfectly clean.  Anyway waiting for him kept us from going out for a walk or bike ride and getting caught in a heavy hail shower.  The engine seemed happy to run fast for half an hour tugging at the pontoon; this gave a bit of confidence but it would be better to know what the problem was.

 

Tomorrow the wind should be less and we should be able to move on.

Wednesday 22 May 2013 – Loch Drumbuie to Tobermory

It’s only a short way to Tobermory, so this should be no problem at all, even though the forecast is for wind increasing during the day. Pam needs internet access this evening and there is nothing at Loch D.

However whilst hoisting the mainsail the engine stopped and would not restart. After hastily returning to our anchoring place we anchored again under sail and fiddled with the engine, suspecting a fuel blockage as the engine only seemed to give up when asked to supply extra power.  After a while it seemed to be working OK, so we motored gingerly through the narrow entrance at slow speed, hardly moving against the wind.  Eventually put up sail with 2 reefs, later 3.  Once moving properly under sail we relaxed a little, but not much as we were beating into F5-6 and looking out for the Stirk rocks.  However on the way in to Tobermory, no cooling water came out – I hope the engine is not suffering from multiple organ failure!  Having had this problem before I tightened up the water pump drive belt a little and all was OK.  Maybe this is related to the other problem but I don’t think so.

We will stay at Tobermory tomorrow as the forecast is for strong wind and hope to consult the engine man.

No photos on the way across...

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Tuesday 21 May 2013 – Puilladobhrain to Loch Drumbuie

A bit grey and the wind is a little stronger than we expected and still from North or NW.  However we said goodbye to Simon and Margaret and left the anchorage.

As expected it was a beat all the way up Firth of Lorne and Sound of Mull, where we put in a reef.  We found we were following 2 Ocean Youth Trust boats up the sound – even though they were not being sailed to their potential (ie quite slowly) we could not catch them.  Eventually turned the corner and ran slowly to Loch Drumbuie, where we anchored on the South side.

No communications networks of any kind here, so will post this tomorrow when we hope to be at Tobermory

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Lightly-laden ship in Sound of Mull

Monday 20 May 2013–Crinan Canal to Puilladobhrain

Seems a good day to leave the canal as we have a reasonable forecast and plenty of fair tide to get us through the tidal gates.  The plan is to get to Puilladobhrain, but if there is any doubt about the Dorus Mor or Sound of Luing then cosy marinas are available.

Approaching Crinan Bridge we were surprised to see the Bavaria which had accompanied us in the locks yesterday coming the other way having a change of plan – at least the bridge was open for us.  Left the canal and spent ages putting away fenders and fender boards. Motored almost to the Dorus Mor in warm sun and then sailed through – no problem – so much for all the dire warnings in the pilot books.  Part way up the Sound of Luing the wind went light and variable, so we hoped we would get carried on by the tide.  It did not seem to help much, possibly because of the neap tide.  However we had time in hand and so slowly passed Easdale when the wind improved and we arrived at Puilladobhrain, soon followed by Simon and Margaret.  We took a short walk over the island to the “Bridge over the Atlantic” and then visited the pub to celebrate our passage with food and drink – a successful start to the West Coast part of the cruise.

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Through Crinan Bridge

Sail change in Sound of Luing

Making sure it’s done properly

At Puilladobhrain

Sunday 19 May 2013–Cairnbaan to Bird Hide (Crinan Canal)

The lock-keepers arranged for us to arrange to move at 1 pm, to arrive at the bird hide before 5 pm.  Simon and Margaret are having an “assisted passage”, whereby the lock-keepers operate the locks for them (normally you have to do most of the work yourself).  We would join them to provide some company and also benefit from the assistance.  Before setting off we walked to see the cup and ring marks on the rocks at Achnabrek.

In spite of the help, it all seemed to take a long time and be rather wearing.  Our 2 boats were at the front of each lock and a Bavaria 30 Cruiser came in behind Simon.  It seemed that being near the front made us more susceptible to the turbulence of the water coming into the lock.  We met a boat coming the other way which had retired from the Scottish 3 peaks race.  It seemed their runner had injured his knee on a mountain and they had retired. 

Meal and drink on Panache with Simon and Margaret (civilised!)
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Ancient cup and ring marks

Peaceful mooring at Cairnbaan

Waiting for another boat to arrive

At the “Bird Hide”

Saturday 18 May 2013 – Caladh Harbour to Cairnbaan (Crinan Canal)

We had already heard that Simon and Margaret Shaw were to be in Cairnbaan today and so we planned to join them.  In the shelter of Caladh there was no wind, and hardly any in the West Kyle, so we motored almost to Ardlamont Point, then had a beat all the way to Ardrishaig, where we entered the canal.  The canal people provided VIP treatment and helped us through some locks and allowed us to leave the gates open on others so that we could get to Cairnbaan before they went home at 5pm.

Drinks at the pub. Food on our boat.

Near Ardlamont Point.  Arran in the distance.

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Friday 17 May 2013 – Kip to Caladh Harbour

Departure day at last – we have not even been out of the marina for a shake-down sail.  Somehow it did not seem a good idea to do so with lots of kit lying about in the boat waiting to be put in its right place.

However at breakfast one of Pam’s back teeth broke. We eventually got to an excellent dentist in Greenock for a temporary repair and left the marina mid-afternoon.

We had a rather slow sail to Caladh Harbour, which is in the Kyles of Bute.  Everything worked OK, including putting in a reef.

Other boats in Caladh Harbour

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15 May 2013 - Up the Mast

Simon and Margaret turned up yesterday by boat from Holy Loch. Today they helped us to fit the wind instrument to the top of the mast.  Pam as the lightest member did the job, but it was still quite hard to winch her up.